A buy opens a tax lot; a sell disposes of lots and realizes a gain or a loss. Fill any two of quantity, price and total — the third works itself out.
Expected columns: date, asset, type, quantity, price and optionally fee — in any order, with a header row. A type of staking, airdrop, mining or interest is read as reward income; a swap or trade row needs sent/received currency and amount columns. Dates as YYYY-MM-DD or DD/MM/YYYY; currency symbols and thousands separators are fine.
We could not recognise the header row, so tell us what is where.
Pick your country — it loads a full set of rates. Only open Advanced if yours differ.
Every rate below came from the country preset. Change any of them to match your own bracket — nothing here is a fixed truth.
The trading fee is an assumption, not a lookup: each row's fee is filled in as that percentage of its total. Any fee you type yourself is kept.
Each bar is a month you sold and realized a gain or loss — buys do not count until you sell.
What counts as a taxable event?
Buying a coin is not taxed. What matters is a disposal — selling it for cash, or swapping it for another coin. At that moment you either made money or lost it, and that difference is what gets taxed. Simply holding, however far it rises, changes nothing.
Realized gains, not paper ones
You are taxed on what you realized when you sold — what the specific coins you sold cost you, against what you got for them — not on whether your whole portfolio is up or down. Coins you still hold that have fallen are only paper losses: they count for nothing until you actually sell them. And losses on coins you do sell offset your gains, lowering the bill.
Short-term vs long-term
Most countries reward patience. Hold a coin longer than a set period — a year in the US — and the gain is taxed at a lower long-term rate. Sell sooner and it is short-term, usually taxed like ordinary income. The tool marks every disposal with which one it was.
Why the same trades give four answers
If you bought the same coin more than once, at different prices, then sold only part of it, nobody can tell which coins left your wallet. They are identical. So you choose a rule, and the rule decides what you paid for the ones you sold — which decides your gain, and your tax.
- FIFO — first in, first out. The oldest coins go first. The usual default, and often the dearest when you bought early and cheap.
- LIFO — last in, first out. The newest coins go first. Helps if you bought recently at a high price, but those coins are rarely old enough for the long-term rate.
- HIFO — highest in, first out. The most expensive coins go first, which makes the gain as small as possible. Allowed in some countries, not all.
- Average cost — pool everything you own of that coin and use one average price. Required in some places, such as Canada and, by a similar rule, the UK.
So why does one cost less?
Because a bigger cost basis means a smaller gain, and a smaller gain means less tax. HIFO usually wins on the arithmetic alone. Whether you may use it is a separate question — your country decides that, not this page.
Where the numbers came from
Your transactions and the rates in step 2 — the tax itself is worked out entirely in your browser. The only thing fetched from outside is public market prices: the closing price on a date you enter, and the live price of coins you still hold. Nothing was read from an account of yours, no transaction of yours was sent anywhere, and nothing was verified against your exchange. Treat the result as a well-informed estimate for a conversation with a professional, not as a filing.
These read your still-open lots against today's price. Coins listed on the exchange feed stream live and tick as they trade; anything it does not carry falls back to your last transaction price, labelled as the estimate it is. Type over either one if you disagree — your figure wins from then on.
Lots about to turn long-term
Sitting on a gain in a lot that is nearly old enough for the long-term rate? Waiting can be worth real money.
Losses you could harvest
Open lots currently under water. Selling them realizes the loss, which nets against this year's gains.
Try a sale before you make it. Pick what you would sell and at what price, and see the gain, the term and what it would add to the bill — then whether waiting would be cheaper.
| Asset | Sold | Quantity | Proceeds | Cost basis | Gain / loss | Held | Term |
|---|
Most tools make you pick a cost-basis method blindly and hand you one number. This one runs FIFO, LIFO, HIFO and average cost side by side, shows which is cheapest and by how much — then finds the legal moves that lower the bill further.
Every figure here is computed in your browser, and your transactions never leave it — there is no server to send them to. The one thing that does go out is a request for public market prices: the closing price for a date you enter, and live prices for coins you hold. Those requests carry a coin and a date, never your amounts.
Editable estimates for education, not tax advice. Rules, brackets and allowances vary by country and year and by your personal income — adjust the rates to your situation or consult a professional. Never file from this number.